Monday, April 4, 2011

Making a Sweater Coat Part 5 Designing the Hood and Sleeves

I finally finished the whole coat design, using diamond patches on the sleeves and hood. I added more columns of diamonds.
To design the diamonds, added more lines and points of intersection to my sketches, and moved them around this way and that while trying to imagine how it will all look in 3D.   
I removed the center back seam with a row of diamonds.  So the H pieces will only need to be cut once.  All other pieces come in pairs.  I added grain lines that go back from the forehead and down the back of the head. The grain lines show me (a) how to cut the pieces and (b) how to put the pieces back together. 

I use darts in my furry hats, so it makes sense to use them here.  I “break” some of the points into two or more, allowing me to move the corners for individual patches to accommodate the curvature of the head. They are effectively darts spaces around the crown of the head. I'm guessing how big to make them.  I'll tell you later if it was a good guess or not.
I can do side seam pockets or hide them under a pair of diamonds on the coat front (piece C3).  I need at least one pocket.  Side seam pockets are only good if you line the coat, otherwise, they look awkward flopping around on the inside of the coat.  If I save putting together the front pieces until the end, I can put off making decisions about the pocket for now. 

I sew through the corner points of my fabric with doubled scrap thread in blue.  It has just enough contrast that I’ll be able to see it, but if I can’t get every last bit out, it won’t show too much.  The reason for the tacks is so that I can match corner points when I pin and sew the patches together.
See Part 6 in which I set up my serger sewing machine, trying out various overlock and chain stitches.


  1. About those side seam pockets and no lining... I bought a light weight polar fleece jacket with side seam pockets and no lining. To keep the pockets from flapping a braided thread (think embroidery floss or seam binding) was attached to the pocket and tacked to something??? I am thinking the zipper seam, but it could be the hem seam.

    My $0.02 I like side seam pockets as they do not add bulk.

  2. I agree with you that I also like side seam pockets best. And, sure, you CAN have side seam pockets without a lining, but I don't think it looks as nice when you can see the pocket on the inside. At this point, I'm leaning towards side seam pockets and a lining. Oy, this project just got hours and hours longer, but oh well. I think it's going to be awesome in the end and probably deserves a lining. At least I hope so.

    Thanks for your two cents KJ. Now, if only I had a bubblegum machine around here...


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